Are You Wasting Your Most Expensive Skincare Product?

Do you know the sequence of using your skincare products?

We’ve all been there: scrolling through flawless routines, mesmerised by the promise of perfect skin. But in the rush to buy the latest "miracle serum," a massive gap in basic knowledge has emerged.

I recently polled my Instagram followers about their serum knowledge, and the results were shocking:

50% were wrong about the true Role of a Serum.
A whopping 75% did not know the correct Sequence of Application for Cleanser, Serum, and moisturiser.

A screenshot of a social media poll asking "WHAT DO YOU THINK IS THE PLACE SERUM IN SKINCARE" with options like "Absolutely essential," "Optional," and "Not needed," showing results (50% chose Optional). — A screenshot of my Instagram poll question and answer - 1

Article content — A screenshot of my Instagram Poll question and answer - 2

This means that three out of four people are creating a barrier on their skin that blocks the very product they spent the most money on!

The Misconception: The Real Role of a Serum

Skinfluencers often sell the dream of transformation, making the serum feel like the ultimate necessity. This has led to major confusion about what a serum actually is:

What Exactly is a Face Serum?

Face serums are specialised skincare products defined by their composition and concentration:

They are typically light, easily absorbed liquids (either oil- or water-based) that spread readily across the skin.
They are often packaged in small bottles with a dropper, signifying their potency and ensuring measured use.
Their defining characteristic is the presence of powerful active ingredients at significantly higher concentrations than those found in standard moisturisers. They are specifically designed for rapid absorption and deep delivery into the skin.

The Role of a Serum:

It's crucial to understand that serums are focused treatments, not universal necessities:

Targeted Power: Serums are specifically formulated to address various skin concerns, including fine lines, hyperpigmentation, severe dryness, and acne. They are the high-performance part of your routine.
Non-Compulsory: Face serums are NOT compulsory for everyone. A complete, effective routine focusing on basic skin health—a good cleanser, moisturiser, and sunscreen—is often sufficient if you do not have specific, targeted concerns you wish to address.
Analogy: If your skincare routine is a house, the Cleanser, Moisturiser, and SPF are the foundation, walls, and roof (non-negotiable structure). The Serum is a high-end appliance or an advanced security system—it significantly enhances quality and function, but the house (your skin) can still stand without it.

Important Considerations (The Pitfalls):

Because of their potency, serums require careful use:

Risk of Irritation: Since they contain powerful ingredients at high concentrations, serums carry a higher risk of irritating sensitive skin or skin that is already compromised.
The Baseline Routine: If you are building a routine or have sensitive skin, start with the essentials. A routine with just a cleanser, moisturiser, and high-quality broad-spectrum sunscreen may be all you need to maintain healthy, protected skin.

Now that we've established the true role of a serum - a powerful, targeted treatment—let's explore the science behind common sequencing mistakes and understand exactly why applying products in the wrong order prevents effective absorption. The effectiveness of your skincare routine hinges entirely on product layering.

The Problematic Sequences (And Why They Fail)

Below are three common mistakes in product application that severely reduce the efficacy of your regimen:

❌ Option 1: Serum -> Moisturize -> Cleanse

This is the most counterproductive sequence:

Problem: The Cleanser is used last, which means it washes away both the serum and the moisturiser you just applied, completely negating their purpose. Furthermore, the serum and moisturiser are applied to unclean skin, trapping dirt and oil underneath.

❌ Option 2: Cleanse -> Moisturize -> Serum

This sequence correctly starts with cleansing but makes a critical layering error:

Problem: The moisturiser is applied before the serum. Moisturisers are typically thicker and designed to form a protective, occlusive barrier. Applying this thick barrier first prevents the thinner, active ingredients in the serum from penetrating deeply into the skin, causing them to sit uselessly on the surface.

❌ Option 4: Moisturize -> Serum -> Cleanse

This sequence mirrors Mistake 1 and guarantees minimal results:

Problem: The entire routine is applied to unclean skin, and the Cleanser is used last. This washes away all product benefits, meaning the serum is applied to skin already covered by a thick moisturiser and the day's impurities, resulting in zero meaningful absorption.

By simply following the professional order, you stop wasting product and start maximising the return on your skincare investment.

The Golden Rule: Thinnest to Thickest

The key principle in professional skincare application is simple: always move from the thinnest consistency to the thickest consistency. This ensures each product can be fully absorbed and that the final, thickest layer seals everything in.

✅ Option 3: The Power Trio Order

A horizontal banner image divided into three colored sections (Red, Yellow, Blue) showing Dr Subramanian T performing the three skincare steps: "1 Cleanse," "2 Apply serum," and "3 Moisturise." — The golden trio in order

For maximum efficacy, your routine must follow this sequence: Cleanse -> Serum -> Moisturiser.

A table detailing the correct order of three basic skincare steps and why it works. The table has four columns: Step (1, 2, 3), Product (Cleanser, Face Serum, Moisturizer), Role & Consistency, and Why This Order Works. Step 1 is Cleanser: Role is Preparation (Water/Foam); it creates a clean slate by removing dirt and oil, allowing subsequent products to penetrate. Step 2 is Face Serum: Role is Treatment (Thinnest Liquid); it delivers concentrated, active ingredients deeply while the pathway is clear. Step 3 is Moisturiser: Role is Sealant (Thickest Cream); it forms the final, protective layer to lock in the serum's benefits and prevent moisture loss. — A table detailing the science behind the steps in the skincare routine

That's it for today. In this video, I demonstrate the correct technique for applying face serum; check it out!

For more health education content [FREE ACCESS], visit www.drsubramaniant.com

Dr. Subramanian T, MD, DNB (DVL)